If you want to select the best slogan, "Diamonds are long-lasting, a eternal rumor" is definitely on the list. This is the classic slogan of the De Beers Group in 1947. It is not only the hard and wear-resistant nature of the diamond texture, but also the meaning of the value-added appreciation of the diamond. Ironically, as the technology of synthetic diamonds matures and prices become lower and lower, it seems that the world can no longer prevent the development of synthetic diamonds. De Beers, who has vowed not to make synthetic diamonds, is now also operating synthetic diamond jewelry. It is.
In China, as a major diamond-consuming and trade-off country after the United States, Guangdong is also a major province for diamond production, processing and trading. The attitude of consumers towards synthetic diamonds has also grown from the 2012 beast to the present. The Yangcheng Evening News reporter learned that China is currently drafting a national standard for the development of synthetic diamonds. Maybe in the near future, young people will buy a huge synthetic diamond wedding ring when they get married, and the certificate is plainly written: synthetic diamond.
Interviewed guests
Hou Yuyu
Director of Guangdong Jewelry and Precious Metals Testing Center, Director of Guangdong Provincial Technical Supervision Jewelry Precious Metal Quality Inspection Station, Director of Guangdong Jewelry National Vocational Skills Appraisal Institute, Senior Engineer, National Jewelry Quality Inspector
Liang Weizhang
General Manager of Guangzhou Diamond Trading Center, Vice Chairman of Zhongbao Association Jewelry Appraisal and Evaluation Professional Committee, Member of Professional Committee of Jewelry Art Appraisal of China Asset Appraisal Association
壹 Market changes: from the savage beast to the calm acceptance
Since 2012, the "Famous Words Collection" column has been closely watching the development of synthetic diamonds. Although the diamonds cultivated in the laboratory have existed for more than 60 years, there have been sporadic synthetic diamonds on the market before 2012. However, in 2012, the Guangdong Jewelry and Precious Metals Testing Center found more than 100 "CVDs" from a batch of diamonds submitted for inspection. When the diamonds were synthesized, the news was still shocking the country. By 2013, some pawnshops even refused to accept diamonds, preferring to do less than a single business and not to accept a diamond. In the following years, the industry regarded artificial diamonds as a beast, and one of the reasons was that the “born†of synthetic diamonds was concealed. In addition, the testing power of many organizations at that time could not distinguish the naturalness of diamonds. For a long time, synthetic diamonds were Equivalent to fakes.
Yangcheng Evening News: What is the development of synthetic diamonds in recent years?
Liang Weizhang: From February to August 2012, China's Beijing and Shenzhen jewelry inspection agencies successively detected 10 batches of 64 pieces of 25 carats of undisclosed synthetic diamonds, most of which were in the range of 0.30-0.60 carats.
In Belgium, far away in Europe, in May of the same year, more than 400 undisclosed synthetic diamonds weighing between 0.30 and 0.70 carats were found in more than 600 samples.
It should be noted that the previous industry's general perception of synthetic diamonds is that the particles are small, the quality is poor, and the production cost is high, and most of them are used in industrial applications such as abrasives. But in 2012, large-particle commercial-grade synthetic diamonds began to enter the market, which was a landmark year for the commercialization of synthetic diamonds.
Hou Yuyu: Nowadays, the synthetic technology of synthetic diamonds is very mature. Henan Province is the manufacturing center and distribution center of the national synthetic diamond industry. In 2017, China's synthetic diamond production was about 25 billion carats, accounting for more than 90% of the world's total, and it dominated the market for 15 consecutive years. However, these synthetic diamonds are mainly used for industrial purposes, and only some of them are gem-quality synthetic diamonds.
Yangcheng Evening News: Guangdong is a major province for diamond production, processing and trading, and is the largest gathering place for diamond industry in China. Is there a large number of jewellery-grade synthetic diamonds in the Guangdong market?
Liang Weizhang: At present, there are no exact statistics on how many synthetic diamonds are in China, especially in the Guangdong market. Synthetic diamonds used in the production of gemstones in the world are relatively mature in commercial countries including China, India, Singapore, the United States and Japan. Russian technology is also very mature.
Due to the rapid decline in production costs, there have indeed been some unscrupulous traders who have made synthetic diamonds undisclosed into natural diamonds and earned huge profits.
However, with the improvement of detection technology and the high vigilance of the detection mechanism, synthetic diamonds can be quickly identified. And most synthetic diamond companies are also self-disciplined and market by emphasizing that the product itself is different from the characteristics of natural diamonds.
Natural diamond jewellery now marketed on the market is subject to rigorous synthetic diamond testing. Coupled with brands and products that are clearly labeled as synthetic diamonds, they are also emerging, bringing new options to the jewelry market.
Hou Yuyu: At present, large diamond wholesalers and well-known diamond jewelry brands in Guangdong still do not sell synthetic diamonds because they are afraid of being confused with their own main business, natural diamonds. These mature companies have their own traceability system for the supply of diamonds, so consumers do not have to worry about buying synthetic products at natural prices, provided that they are purchased in regular channels.
Yangcheng Evening News: Sending diamonds from the Guangdong Jewelry and Precious Metals Testing Center to synthetic diamonds to counterfeit natural diamonds?
Hou Yuyu: There are relatively few subjective falsifications. Now the detection technology for synthetic diamonds is very advanced. As long as it is a synthetic diamond, it can be detected on the machine. It is not easy to make fakes. However, because the equipment is relatively expensive, some tests also use liquid nitrogen. The requirements for the laboratory are relatively high, and the general laboratory can't do it, so the industry is still our most authoritative.
Most of the synthetic diamonds found in the inspection are small diamonds of less than 1 carat. These synthetic diamonds are mostly used as a group of drills with a large number of stones. It is difficult to detect one grain and one grain, and it is easy to fish in troubled waters.
There are also large diamonds above the carat, but relatively few. Most of them were bought by consumers when they traveled abroad. After a re-examination, they found that they were deceived.
In fact, whether it is diamonds or emeralds, red sapphires, jade and other jewellery, it is better to buy in the "place of origin" than in the "distribution place". Guangzhou is China's largest jewelry distribution center, with great competition and very transparent prices.
è´° New price: Guangdong synthetic diamonds only account for 1/10 of natural diamonds
Yangcheng Evening News: The price of natural diamonds depends on the 4C standard. How is the price system of synthetic diamonds formulated?
Liang Weizhang: Up to now, most synthetic diamond sales companies are still offering quotations for natural diamonds in the gem and jewellery market. Some companies and brands in the field of gemstone jewelry tend to evaluate the product according to the weight, color, clarity and cutting process of the polished synthetic diamond. The price of the natural diamond is lowered by 50% or even 80%, depending on the Product cost, brand positioning and marketing strategy.
Yangcheng Evening News: De Beers in the 2018 launch of the Lightbox laboratory to cultivate diamond jewelry, 0.25 carat "Guanxuan" price is 200 US dollars (about 1400 yuan); 1 carat price is 800 US dollars (about 5600 yuan) ), is this price lower than the price of synthetic diamonds on the market?
Liang Weizhang: De Beers' pricing does not consider the difference in color, clarity and cut. Lightbox believes that laboratory cultivation of diamonds is a linear production. At the same stage of scientific and technological level, production costs have no significant difference in value in terms of color, clarity and cutting process level, but only As the weight of the product increases, the input of resources such as production time and energy increases linearly.
At present, the production cost of synthetic diamonds has been greatly reduced. Taking the production technology of CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition) as an example, the production cost has dropped to one tenth of 2008 in ten years. In the market, the retail price of synthetic diamonds has also fallen by about 50% in the past two years.
Hou Yuyu: With the continuous advancement of technology, the price of synthetic diamonds on the market has become lower and lower in recent years. At present, the price of synthetic diamonds on the market in Guangdong is about 1/10 of that of natural diamonds of the same level.
Yangcheng Evening News: Can the colored diamonds be synthesized?
Hou Yuyu: There is absolutely no problem in technology, and the detection technology is the same. Whether it is synthetic or not, it is clear on the machine. At present, the price of synthetic colored diamonds is only about 1% of natural colored diamonds.
Natural colored diamonds are very expensive because they are very rare. However, the cost of artificially cultivating a colored diamond is not much different from cultivating a white diamond.
Yangcheng Evening News: The Antwerp Diamond Center and Bain Consulting recently released the eighth annual Global Diamond Industry Report, mentioning that the future of the diamond industry will depend on three key industry trends, the second of which is the laboratory synthetic diamonds. Gradually occupying the market, it is believed that synthetic diamonds will be available to a wider range of consumers, which may increase the demand for diamonds in the market. Not only that, in July 2018, the US Federal Trade Commission also revised its jewelry guide to clarify that "diamonds are diamonds" regardless of their source. For the development of synthetic diamonds in the future, do you think it is the general trend?
Hou Yuyu: The market share of synthetic diamonds will definitely increase in the future. First of all, it has no difference in appearance from natural diamonds, even cutting, better color, less impurities and defects. And as technology advances, don't say 1 carat of synthetic diamonds, now 20 or 30 carats of synthetic diamonds can be made.
The second is the price factor. The laboratory-synthesized diamonds have existed for more than 60 years. The first time in 1973, the United States had synthesized large-grain diamonds. It has not been rolled out before because the cost of gem-quality synthetic diamonds was too high, even more than natural diamonds. expensive. But with the advancement of technology, the price of synthetic diamonds will continue to decrease.
Coupled with the major changes in the current consumer philosophy, the wedding attributes of diamonds are getting weaker. If synthetic diamond jewelry is more beautiful and cheaper, I believe many people are willing to buy it.
Liang Weizhang: The Global Diamond Industry Report 2018 released by Bain last month believes that the market share of diamonds in the field of jewellery will increase, but it does not say that it will gradually occupy the market.
I agree that the market will increasingly accept the idea of ​​synthetic diamonds, which are a good complement to the natural diamond supply of consumers and can alleviate the decline in the natural yield of natural diamonds to some extent. The problem, synthetic diamonds have a good performance in fashion jewelry, with appropriate marketing, I believe will get better development prospects.
At present, synthetic diamonds account for only 1%-2% of the natural diamond market. The industry estimates that by 2030, the proportion can reach 5%-10%, but this does not mean that it will replace the natural diamond market.
Hou Yuyu: The trend is indeed true, but as I said earlier, today's brands are reluctant to introduce synthetic diamonds because they are afraid of affecting the main business of their natural diamonds. At present, only these brands have the mature industry chain and marketing experience of jewelry design, management, distribution, and they do not, the market of synthetic diamonds cannot be spread out on a large scale.
But I believe that, backed by the diamond market, which is currently the most promising, there will definitely be some new capitals willing to do this market. As long as there is big money to enter and make some well-known brands, the market for synthetic diamonds will It will grow with it.
å Latest news: Synthetic diamonds are developing national standards
Yangcheng Evening News: For the synthetic diamonds found in the inspection, will the Guangdong Jewelry and Precious Metals Testing Center issue a certificate of “synthetic diamonds�
Hou Yuyu: Synthetic diamonds will be written on the certificate, but because there is no corresponding national standard for synthetic diamond classification in China, the certificate will not have a specific classification like natural diamonds.
At present, the country is studying and drafting standards for the development of synthetic diamonds. The Guangdong Jewelry and Precious Metals Testing Center is one of the main drafting units.
Yangcheng Evening News: Natural diamonds have an internationally accepted "4C" standard, which measures the pros and cons of diamonds by weight (carat), color, clarity, and cut standards. Will synthetic diamonds have the same grading standards?
Hou Yuyu: Synthetic diamonds will also have grading standards. They will refer to the “4C†standard for natural diamonds, and use these four criteria to measure the quality of synthetic diamonds. But it may be a bit rougher than natural diamonds, and the level will not be as fine as natural diamonds.
For example, the purity of natural diamonds can be divided into 11 levels from IF to P. IF and FL are the highest grades, which are almost completely pure, very precious and rare; VVS1 and VVS2 are high grades; followed by VS1, VS2 and SI1, SI2; then P1, P2, P3. In the division of colors, natural diamonds can be divided into D- Yangcheng Evening News: Is the name of “synthetic diamonds†used in the national standards being developed? Hou Yuyu: “Synthetic diamonds†is a common saying in the industry, but some professionals prefer the name “cultivating diamondsâ€. First, the name “Cultivate Diamonds†describes its production process. It is an artificial method in the laboratory that simulates the crystallization characteristics of natural diamonds and cultivates the diamonds that are produced and manufactured to distinguish them from natural diamonds. More importantly, we want to give the synthetic diamond a name. Nowadays, the universal term for it in society and on the Internet is “artificial diamondâ€. In the subconscious, it is equated with fake goods, which is very exclusive. But what is a fake? Only when the (marked) things you declare are not equal to what you sell, that is the fake. If you start by selling synthetic diamonds and synthetic diamonds, how can you call fakes? We hope that through standards, we will guide consumers to have a correct understanding of synthetic diamonds, at least not to be misled. 还有 Is there any collection value for natural diamonds? Yangcheng Evening News: Many people have regarded diamonds as large-cap stocks in jewelry. Although the price rises slowly, it is the most stable and most resistant, with an average annual increase of 5%-8%. More importantly, diamonds, like gold, are internationally popular hard currencies. I inquired about the price of diamonds in Guangzhou market in 2014: 1 carat diamond of I color VVS1 level, the price is 72,000 yuan; 0.5 carat 18,000 yuan; 0.25 carat 4500 yuan. Diamonds with a color grade of H and a clarity level of VVS, the price of 1 carat is about 120,000 yuan to 130,000 yuan, and the price of 50 points is about 30,000 yuan. I don't know the price of the above-mentioned corresponding diamonds. What is the price? Hou Yuyu: The price is still similar, slightly lower than 2014, but the price cut is not large. In 2011, the price of diamonds was the highest. Many people feel that the price of diamonds has not risen in the last ten years. On the one hand, because of the increase in mines, on the other hand, the mining technology has increased, so the output has increased. Coupled with the increasing purchasing power of Chinese people, the appreciation of diamonds lags behind China's inflation rate, so it is felt that the price of diamonds has fallen in the last decade. Liang Weizhang: Internationally, the diamond wholesale market is quoted in US dollars. In the retail market, the pricing of diamonds is related to sales channels, economic environment, market competition, etc., and there is still a certain lag effect. Affected by the exchange rate of the US dollar, diamonds are now being purchased in RMB, which is a bit more expensive in terms of numbers. From the perspective of sales channels, the competition is fierce, the market is transparent, and it brings different price challenges to retail enterprises. Yangcheng Evening News: "Diamonds are long-lasting, a eternal rumor" slogan, not only said that the diamond texture is hard and wear-resistant, the original transmission also has the meaning of diamond value appreciation. I used to say that the diamond collection wants to buy a carat diamond. Now it is affected by synthetic diamonds. Is there any collection value for natural diamonds? Hou Yuyu: For the collection value of diamonds, there are two different views in the industry. Some people think that the collection function of diamonds will be weakened. However, some people think that the emergence of synthetic diamonds will push up the price of natural diamonds. Those who hold the price increase view believe that synthetic diamonds will be available to a wider range of consumers in view of lower production costs, wholesale and retail prices, which may increase the demand for diamonds in the market. However, in the short to medium term, the growth of synthetic diamonds will be limited by manufacturing capacity, technology and intellectual property, as well as funding, and some people will turn to the consumption of natural diamonds. More importantly, the large-scale popularization of synthetic diamonds will certainly inhibit the exploitation of natural diamonds. Reducing the mining of mines, the supply of natural diamonds, especially large particles, is bound to decrease, and supply and demand have changed. Things are rare, and the price of natural diamonds will naturally rise all the way. Liang Weizhang: I personally believe that the consumption culture of diamonds has both emotional and investment factors. Synthetic diamonds enter the consumer market and will bring about certain changes to the traditional natural diamond consumer market. But I also believe that these two categories are parallel development and complement each other. Natural diamonds are still a scarce resource in nature. Not only the natural diamonds with large particles and high quality (color, clarity and cut are better) have collectible value. The diamond jewelry with special emotions given by relatives and friends is also very precious. wealth.
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